Historic St. George's
Bermuda's famous pink-sand beaches and sophisticated resorts take top honours for tourism glamour, but it is the Town of St. George that wins the world spotlight for historic importance.

Since 2000, it's been a UNESCO World Heritage site — a priceless designation that recognises St. George as the fifth-oldest English municipality in the New World.

Jamestown, Virginia is older than St. George and can also take credit, in an odd way, for Bermuda being found at all. For centuries, sailors raced back and forth across the Atlantic without leaving any sign that humans ever inhabited this remote island group 600 miles east of Cape Hatteras. Then a fleet of British ships was scattered in a storm while trying to reach Jamestown, and its flagship Sea Venture came ashore in Bermuda.

Survivors, led by Sir George Somers, rushed to salvage what they could from the shipwreck. Over the next 10 months, they built two smaller ships, loaded up with the meat of wild hogs plus whatever other edibles they could find in the verdant "isle of eternal spring" and sailed for Jamestown just in time to save colonists from starvation. The little crescent of land that gave them refuge is the present St. George, tracing its roots to 1609 — more than 10 years before the Mayflower landed at Plymouth Rock. The town's official founding as a municipality was logged in 1612.

Just footsteps from the dock, visitors find themselves in a beguiling labyrinth of ancient streets with such names as One Gun Alley, Convict Lane, Printer's Alley, Duke of Clarence Street and Old Maid's Lane. Is this London, 1640? Almost. St. George was called New London for a time, and until 1815, it was also the capital of Bermuda.

Ambling the old town is a journey back in time, a feast that nourishes travellers at their own pace and according to their own senses. Catch the scent of a fragrant bush. Snap a close-up photograph of a perfect bloom or an architectural detail from the 17th or 18th century. Smile at a quaint sign. Bask in the warm sun. Ask questions of local residents. Remember to look up at rooftops and second storeys, and down at paving stones that came over as bilge ballast 200 years ago. St. George offers something old, something new and tourism treats galore.

Parsing Bermuda's Parishes

Let's sort out the geography. Britain's oldest self-governing Overseas Territory, Bermuda is made up of some 140 islands large and small. Some are reached only by private boat. Some are uninhabited. The remainder are linked by bridges or causeways. The territory is divided into nine parishes, each with its own elaborate crest, elected officials and, in most cases, Anglican parish churches. Anglicans still make up the largest religious group, followed by Roman Catholics and a dozen other faiths.

St. George's Parish covers a sprinkling of islands including Ordnance Island, the 703-acre St. George's Island (known as Tortus Island or King's Island on some old maps) and St. David's Island, home of one of Bermuda's picturesque lighthouses. To the eternal frustration of spell checkers, the town is St. George, the parish is St. George's. Town Square is also King's Square depending on what map you have. In the past, it's also been called King's Parade and Market Square.

St. George is in Bermuda's far northeast corner, a long way from other population centres. So, despite its early settlement and excellent harbour, it was replaced as Bermuda's capital by Hamilton, which is centrally located between the east end and the Royal Naval Dockyard on the western end of the archipelago. Government buildings, big department stores and mammoth cruise ship docks were not to be part of St. George's destiny — but that may have been a blessing in disguise. The hamlet was left to set its own pace, safe from developers' bulldozers and wrecking balls. Nowhere else in Bermuda can visitors find the sense of rich, roistering and real heritage that still pervades St. George.

Not just British and Bermudian history were written on these old stones, but exciting chapters of American history unfolded here as well. During America's Revolutionary War (1770s), one Bermudian faction managed to steal British gunpowder and supplied it to the rebels. During the American Civil War (1860s), Bermuda was a transfer point for Confederate blockade-runners. During Prohibition years (1920s) in the United States, when Americans couldn't buy alcohol in any form, Bermuda hosted rumrunners and bootleggers. In World War II, it was a vital outpost for Britain and her Allies.

Getting to St. George's

Smaller cruise ships call at St. George's. Other cruise ships, whether docked in Hamilton or Dockyard, offer shore excursions to St. George's at the archipelago's far northeastern end. Independent travellers can get here using Bermuda's excellent public transportation system (bus or ferry). They can also rent scooters or arrange a private tour by taxi or van.

Getting there is half the fun on board the Sea Express ferry. The ferry offers a scenic and comfortable journey with six daily trips to St. George's (from Hamilton, via Dockyard) from April 7 to October 31 only. Or take a leisurely Bermuda Breeze bus ride from Hamilton via routes 1, 3, 10 or 11. The one-way fare from Dockyard is $4 for adults and $2 for children (ages 5-16; under 5 ride for free). The one-way fare from Hamilton is $8 for adults and $4 for children (ages 5-16; under 5 ride for free). The most popular method of payment for visitors is the Transportation Pass, which is good for unlimited rides on the bus and ferry system. Passes cost $12 for one day, $20 for two days, $28 for three days, $35 for four days and $45 for seven days. This route can also carry cycles at a cost of $4. If travelling on the ferry, please ensure you have purchased your tickets, tokens or passes in advance to travel on all routes, since cash is not accepted. Call 295-4506 for ferry information and 292-3851 for bus information. To access information via the Internet, go to www.seaexpress.bm or www.bermudabuses.bm.

Taxi rates start at $6.40 for the first mile and up to four passengers. Sightseeing with seasoned and knowledgeable driver-guides costs from $40 per hour for up to four people.

Sightseeing

Two Visitor Service Bureaus welcome travellers to St. George's. One is at the Pennes Wharf cruise ship terminal; the other is at Caffe Latte on York Street. Sign up for a guided tour or pick up a free copy of the Experience Bermuda magazine for St. George's and set off on your own. Water Street runs east and west following the waterfront. Behind it and running parallel for much of its length is Duke of York Street. Stitching them together are small and delightfully picturesque lanes, some only a few footsteps in length, but all well worth exploring.

Strolling the compact little town with its maze of alleys and byways brings endless surprises: a tiny shop here, a museum there, quaint signs or markers, architectural oddments and sometimes even a local person dressed in 18th-century garb just for the fun of it. Everything starts at King's Square, the historic heart of the town and the scene of special events ranging from short skits to the elaborate Peppercorn Ceremony in late April. In full regalia and with great pomp, the annual rent of one peppercorn is accepted by the government from the Freemasons, according to an agreement made in the early 19th century.

Just beyond the square on Ordnance Island, see the imposing statue of Sir George Somers, the shipwreck survivor who is honoured as Bermuda's founder. Created by famed Bermuda sculptor Desmond Fountain, the statue was unveiled in 1984 by Princess Margaret. Although his body was returned to England, Somers' heart was buried in Bermuda. Across the way is a replica of the Deliverance, one of two small ships the Somers party built to continue the journey to Jamestown. Tour the ship for a small admission charge.

Leaving the square, climb the steep stone stairs leading to St. Peter's Church, the oldest continuously used Anglican house of worship in the New World. The first building was erected on this site in 1612. If the church is open, you'll see priceless relics such as an original baptismal font and communion set. But even if it's closed, make the climb and walk around the historic building and its cemetery. Gravestones tell an eloquent story, and the grounds are peaceful and pleasant enough to catch your breath and bask in island breezes. Behind the church on Broad Alley, note the Old Rectory — probably the oldest home in Bermuda. It got its name because it was once the home of a popular parish priest. Now owned by the Bermuda National Trust, it's open to the public in season on Wednesdays. (297-4261)

Stroll past the Old State House on Princess Street. Dating to 1621, it was the first civilian stone structure in Bermuda. Although it's open during limited hours, it's photography fodder because of its age and its noble architecture. Leased now to the Freemasons, it's rented for the annual price of one peppercorn. (292-2480)

The St. George's Historical Society Museum is housed in an 18th-century home furnished with pieces from the period. The 18th-century kitchen is a favourite of visitors. Also in the Museum are a 300-year-old Bible and a letter written by George Washington. (297-0423)

Tucker House, built in the mid-1700s, has been a museum since 1953. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected to the U.S. House of Representatives, was once a barber to the household. Furnishings are true to the period when Henry Tucker, who was president of the Governor's Council from 1775 to 1807, lived here. Many items of furniture, silver and portraits belonged to the Tucker family. (297-0545)

Formerly called the Confederate Museum, Rogues and Runners is a display devoted to the eras of blockade-running during the American Civil War and rum-running during America's Prohibition. Find it in the former Globe Hotel on Duke of York Street. (297-1423)

The Bermuda Heritage Museum, at the corner of Water and York streets, is devoted to the history of Bermuda's people. Many storeys are told here, including the fascinating tale of the slave ship Enterprise. Blown off course, the ship was forced to land in Bermuda to make repairs. However, slavery had already been outlawed in Bermuda and the ship's passengers were given a choice of being freed or returning to their masters. All but one family elected to stay in Bermuda. (297-4126)

Bridge House, behind King's Square, is now an art gallery. Built of wood in the 1600s, it was rebuilt in stone in the early 1700s. Some of the most important people in Bermuda's history lived here. One of them was Robert Dinwiddie, the governor of Virginia before the American Revolution. Another was Bridger Goodrich of Virginia, who remained loyal to the Crown, fled to Bermuda during the Revolution and took to sea as a privateer. (297-8211)

Outside Town

To get around, it's fun to rent a scooter at Oleander Cycles, with a shop located on York Street (297-0478). Oleander is Bermuda's number one cycle livery and offers quality scooters at competitive rates. You will receive safety instructions in a private practice area. The St. George location is open seven days a week. They have other shops located at Valley Road, Paget (236-BIKE); Gorham Road, Hamilton (295-0919); Middle Road, Southampton (234-0629); and Cockburn Road, Dockyard (234-2764). Visit www.oleandercycles.bm for more information.

Despite its tiny land area, Bermuda boasts eight championship golf courses and probably more golf holes per square mile than anywhere else on earth. Spend a pleasant morning or afternoon at St. George's Golf Course on Park Road. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, the course is challenging and beautiful, with ocean views at every hole. Facilities include: a pro shop, club rentals, locker facilities and a bar and restaurant overlooking the 18th green. Green fees are $90.00 per person, including cart. For information on all golfing specials, visit www.stgeorgesgolf.bm. (297-8067)

If you prefer the beach scene, Tobacco Bay is a beautiful, sheltered, secluded beach — a favourite with visitors and locals alike, and especially popular with families. If you are looking for the perfect tan, a refreshing swim or a snorkelling adventure around the rocks, Tobacco Bay is the place to visit. The clear, shallow water ensures safety for kids. Tobacco Bay's Concessions and facilities include a deck dining area (which specialises in local cuisine), a beer and wine bar, a gift shop and braiding services. Tobacco Bay also rents snorkel gear, umbrellas and loungers to make your day comfortable and fun. Tobacco Bay is the family fun place in St. George's! (297-2756)

Other outstanding beaches are Gates Bay, where survivors of the Sea Venture shipwreck came ashore in 1609; Frobisher's Buildings Bay, where Deliverance was built in 1610; and Achilles Bay, where the private beach is for use of St. George's Club guests. Food concessions and changing facilities are available at popular beaches in season, generally May to October.

Clearwater Beach and Park is on Cooper's Island and has nature trails and a children's playground. The beach is interesting, although it has pebbly areas rather than unbroken expanses of the famous pink sand. At Gombey's Restaurant & Bar, enjoy local food and cocktails, and rent snorkel equipment, pedal boats, bikes, umbrellas and chairs. (293-5092)

Turtle Bay nearby is also public. Fort St. Catherine Beach has a beach bar, whilst Mullet Bay Park has a small beach. If you're on a private boat, go ashore on Paget Island. Beaches are public, but only up to the high water line.

Many fishing world records have been set in Bermuda waters. The best fishing is from April to November, but feisty wahoo and tuna are still taking the bait during the off-season. A number of licensed captains offer well-equipped sportfishing boats for charter out of the east end. Contact the St. George's Game Fishing and Cruise Association. (297-8093)

Touring by road, one of the first stops just outside the town of St. George is the Unfinished Church, which is simply that. Building of the stately structure began in the 1870s. Today, there are varying explanations for why it wasn't completed. Some say the congregation argued and split. Some say the project ran out of funds. In any case, it's an interesting place to see and photograph.

The lighthouse on St. David's Island has been guiding sailors since 1879 and became internationally famous in 1977 when it was featured in the movie The Deep. Climb to its balcony for an endless view. It's open to the public May through September. (236-5902)

Throughout the ages, forts were built all along the coast around St. George's to defend the outpost from various invaders — even as late as World War II. At the entrance to Town Cut is Gate's Fort, built in the 1620s. Even earlier, in 1612, the small fortress called Fort George was built on a hill west of town. As restoration continues, parts of the site are open to the public. Stop to see what's new in the restoration and you'll also get a breathtaking view of the sea.

At Fort St. Catherine's (297-1920), see dioramas highlighting Bermuda's early history, a restored magazine, weapons of all types from pistols to muzzle-loading guns, replicated British crown jewels and an audiovisual presentation on Bermuda's many forts. About a mile away on Barry Road, see Alexandra Battery, built to defend the Narrows Channel.

Between 1931 and 1948, a 22-mile-long railway ran from St. George's to Somerset in the far northwest end of the island. Rail buffs can read more about its history at www.bermudarailway.net. For today's visitor, the former rail bed is a recreation resource. Join it anywhere along the line to hike some of the most scenic portions of the island. Information is available at Visitor Information Centres in St. George's and from the Bermuda Parks Department. (236-4201)

St. George's Shopping

Hamilton is the holy grail of Bermuda's famed duty-free shopping — but save some shopping dollars for St. George's… you'll be glad you did. Some of the stores here are clones of Hamilton shops, selling the same items at the same prices. Others offer specialty items or the works of a particular artist or crafter. All are worth a look, if only to peer into nooks and crannies of the old buildings that house them.

A symbol of the island where juniper trees were once abundant, cedar is now scarce, expensive and highly sought after as a souvenir. Crafters turn it into boxes, plaques, bookends and other lovely wooden pieces whose grain and aroma will always bring back memories of your stay in Bermuda. Also look for dolls dressed in Gombey costume and dolls made from preserved local banana leaves.

Other island symbols that are often seen as charms, ornaments, necklaces or interpreted in paintings include the Bermuda longtail, the bird that announces the arrival of spring; the round moon gate that became popular in Bermuda during the clipper ship era; perfumes made from Bermuda blooms; and Bermuda honey, flavoured with Bermuda's own mix of local florals. Take home beautiful Bermuda stamps or coins from today's mintings, or antique stamps and coins for a serious collection. Also prized by collectors are antiquarian books and maps or old postcards.

Whilst visiting the historic town of St. George, you can shop at two of A.S. COOPER & Sons Ltd. stores. On Water Street, there is A.S. Cooper FRANGIPANI, where you will find Fresh Produce items, along with other unique fashions, accessories, straw hats and handbags. Perfect for the beach, sightseeing or just for fun. Further down Water Street is one of the branch stores for A.S. Cooper & Sons Ltd. If you can't make it into the city, you will find a selection of merchandise from their Hamilton locations. Fashions for him or her, fragrances and souvenirs too. (297-0925)

Looking for a perfect little memento of your trip to Bermuda or a gift to take back home? Then look no further than The Carole Holding Shop in St. George's. From the moment you walk in the door, you will come face to face with a new delight at every corner. Carole originally made her name as one of Bermuda's premier artists by selling affordable lithographs to locals and tourists alike. Whilst you can still purchase one of Carole's beautiful lithographs in a host of sizes and options (rolled in a tube, matted or framed and ready to hang on the wall), she now sells many interesting gifts that incorporate her unique painting style, such as morning glory mugs, tea towels, linen placemats, aprons and much more! Carole has also used her training as a professional chef to develop her own recipes and food products. Shoppers can now purchase jams, marmalades or one of the best rum cakes on the island, all originally developed in Carole's kitchen. And not to be missed are Carole's new perfumed soaps inspired by the fragrance of Bermuda's flowers. Carole is a creative genius, and you'll enjoy browsing and shopping from the moment you arrive in her store. This is one shop not to be missed! (297-1833). Other store locations are in Front Street, Hamilton and Fairmont Southampton.

Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda's finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. In St. George's, you'll find two Crisson stores, one on York Street (297-0672) and the other on Water Street (297-0107). Both offer boutique style shopping with a distinctly old-world flavour. The atmosphere is relaxed and intimate, yet you'll find the same eclectic collections, value and prices as in Hamilton.

Whilst you're in St. George, shop for handmade pieces at Dockside Glass & Rum Cakes, which offers a choice of Bermudian goods. Located just off King's Square, Dockside offers a display of colourful Bermuda-made hot glass in its smallest shop. The store will welcome you with a taste of Bermuda rum cakes and choices of its classic art, small collectibles and a selection of handmade jewellery. The Bermudian artists featured at the store have been very creative and busy. Open every day 9 a.m.-6 p.m., and until 9 p.m. when a ship is at port. (297-3908)

E.R. Aubrey Jewellers Ltd. is an authority on tanzanite, with the largest selection of tanzanite on the island. They specialize in coloured gemstones, including alexandrites, emeralds, fire opals and sapphires. Aubrey's buys in large quantities and they offer an unbeatable selection and value. Come and see items found only at E.R. Aubrey, including the Bermuda Destination Bangle available in gold and silver, and of course the popular Bermuda Lucky Stone. Don't miss their large collection of shipwreck treasure coins. You will not find lower prices and better quality anywhere. (297-5059)

The English Sports Shop has a branch store in St. George with a wide variety of items available. From classic colourful Bermuda shorts and blazers to an array of knitwear in cotton, wool and cashmere, the store offers an opportunity for a unique, fashionable souvenir of your visit. Don't miss their own collection of "Island Casuals," a fun and useful way to remember your vacation. (297-0142, www.englishsportsshop.com)

Located in Somer's Wharf, The Island Shop is a "must" visit for unique ceramic and linen products, all designed by Barbara Finsness. Comments by residents and visitors include "Finally, a beautiful shop to buy our gifts" and "I want to buy everything in your store." Barbara's designs are colourful and tropical, reflecting the best and lasting images of Bermuda. The Island Shop won "Best of Giftware" from The Bermudian magazine. Each item is specially made and labelled with her signature. New designs are continuously added to the collection. (297-1514, www.islandexports.com)

Vera P. Card, located at 7 and 20 Water Street in St. George, offers jewellery, watches, figurines, crystal, clocks and gifts from around the world at duty-free prices. Selections are varied and prices are guaranteed to offer savings over prices in the U.S. Jewellery is "value guaranteed" against an appraisal of your choice. Vera P. Card features the largest collection of Lladró, M.I. Hummel and NAO by Lladró in the Caribbean, along with the complete Swarovski Silver-Crystal Collection. The shop also has a wide collection of fine crystal and glass. Their jewellery collection emphasises unusual, high-value stones, as well as exceptional workmanship in gold and sterling silver. There is also a wide collection of beautiful gemstone globes, which are shipped free to North America. (297-1718 / 295-1729)

Dining in St. George's

Reservations are always recommended when dining in Bermuda, and in season they're essential. Keep in mind that many restaurants, especially fine dining establishments, require jackets (although they can be worn with Bermuda shorts and knee socks). Many also ban blue jeans, cut-offs, sleeveless T-shirts and bare chests for men. Ties are frequently seen but are not always required. Beachwear should be worn only at the beach and pool.

Sit and watch the sun go down from the terrace of Blackbeard's Hideout overlooking Achilles Bay for a cocktail, lunch or dinner. A popular local spot with a casual atmosphere and great food that make for a true Bermuda experience. Not to be missed; also great for private functions! (297-1400)

The unique 17th-century original brick Carriage House on St. George's waterfront provides a very special dining experience. The vaulted arches of the tastefully decorated interior provide a wonderful historic ambience with large window views — and dining outside by the water's edge is everyone's favourite. The Carriage House is famous for their amazing Sunday Brunch, intimate cocktail lounge and bar, waterfront patio and a menu that ranges from casual dining to sophisticated dishes influenced by five centuries of Bermudian and European tradition. (297-1730)

With breathtaking views overlooking St. George's harbour, Griffin's Bistro & Bar is located at The St. George's Club on top of Rose Hill. Join them for lunch or dinner in the newly refurbished "Harbour View" dining room and enjoy great food and friendly service. Griffin's is the jewel in the crown of St. George. (297-4235)

The White Horse Pub & Restaurant is Bermuda's favourite pub and seafood restaurant in St. George's, and is well known for its creative and colourful dishes, friendly service and breathtaking views of St. George's harbour. The restaurant offers covered waterside dining and an outdoor bistro area where you can soak up the sun if desired. It serves a wide selection of fresh local fish and flame-grilled steaks, as well as English and Bermudian pub favourites. When it comes to entertainment, nobody does it better. There is live entertainment day and night at the outdoor "Native Islander Bar." Sit back and relax to all your favourite songs of the past and present while enjoying one of the unique signature cocktails made especially for you. When the sun goes down, there is only one thing you need to do — and that's head towards the LIGHT. LIGHT is Bermuda's newest nightclub, located inside The White Horse. Enjoy state-of-the-art lighting and sound while you dance the night away with Bermuda's top DJs spinning the hottest and latest music from around the world. For all you sports fans out there, enjoy wall-to-wall sports coverage of your favourite teams, from morning to night. Please visit the website for more info at www.whitehorsebermuda.com. The White Horse is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m.-10 p.m., and the bar is open until 3 a.m. Take out is available. (297-1838)

Have a great experience in the spacious, open environment at one of Bermuda's largest beaches and best establishments — Clearwater Beach and Gombey's Restaurant & Bar. Gombey's has a variety of island foods, cocktails and music; a warm, cordial and friendly staff; and rents snorkel equipment, pedal boats, bikes, umbrellas and chairs. Play a game of volleyball, enjoy the nearby nature reserve walk and visit another beach just yards away — Turtle Beach. Gombey's is located seven to 10 minutes away from the shipping ports and the Town of St. George, and a short drive by bus, minivan or taxi. Open seven days a week from 10 a.m. until late. Catering available to large and small parties for special celebrations. (293-5092)

Places to Stay

Nestled on the top of Rose Hill, with spectacular views of St. George's harbour, is The St. George's Club, Bermuda's premier cottage colony and vacation ownership resort. Offering one- and two-bedroom cottages in Bermuda's typical architectural style, the resort features beautifully manicured gardens, three swimming pools, tennis courts, a restaurant and bar, cycle livery, on-site grocery adjacent to golf and pink-sand beaches. Overlooking the World Heritage Town of St. George and its pristine harbour. For reservations, call 297-1200 or e-mail reservations@stgeorgesclub.com. For vacation ownership inquiries, call 297-1222 or e-mail sales@stgeorgesclub.com. (www.stgeorgesclub.com)

DID YOU KNOW? John Roffe, one of the Sea Venture castaways, continued on to Virginia and married Indian princess Pocahontas.

DID YOU KNOW? On Tuesday evenings in summer revellers flock to St. George's for Market Nights to enjoy shopping, food, entertainment and historic re-enactments from May 1 till Sept. 25, 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.

Experience Bermuda and historic St. George's by booking your trip online now!

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